The best table in the house: We’ve all heard that movies stars, rock stars, and business moguls demand special seating when they approach the maître d in a fine restaurant. It’s a table where they can see and be seen, but discreet enough to do whatever business is at hand.
The best table in the house doesn’t apply to me. I’m neither angling to have the paparazzi snap a photo of me having dinner with Justin Timberlake and Jimmy Fallon nor brokering deals that will change the course of American commerce. I’m just a gal with a blog and column, I make reservations at good-to-great restaurants, and I’m happy wherever I’m seated.
Really, I’m there for the food.
But boy, oh boy, did I ever get a taste of the sweet life. I may be ruined for good!
My friend and colleague, Sherma Mather, was visiting St. Louis from Richmond, Virginia, and I wanted to introduce her to one of the best fine-dining experiences in St. Louis, Cielo at Four Seasons Hotel*. Rather than call for a reservation, I facebooked** Stephen Wancha – the fab food and beverage director – to ask whether I needed a late reservation for a Wednesday night.
He facebooked me back and said that my reservation was set.
I thought to myself, “Wow, how cool is that?” Even after all of the years I’ve known this wonderful staff, I’m honored by the way they take care of me. And let’s face facts: I was being lazy by not calling. (Yup, I own it.)
You simply can’t imagine my reaction when I received a reservation confirmation phone call that told me that Sherma and I would be sitting at the Chef’s Table***. Yes, I got weak in the knees. Yes, I felt a little woozie. Yes, I got flushed. It’s a big deal, and I couldn’t stop giggling.
I kept asking myself, “Have I arrived?”
It certainly felt that way when Sherma and I checked in for our reservation and were ushered to our lovely table for two, which was set up in Cielo’s state-of-the-art kitchen. Upon taking our seats, Michael Pechlof, the food and beverage manager, glided up to our table and poured us each a beautiful glass of champagne to welcome us to dinner.
And then began a gastronomic extravaganza prepared by Sous Chef Marc Kusche.
The first course was a beautiful presentation of grilled octopus with micro basil, red onion marmalade and saba, which is a balsamic reduction. Michael paired the octopus with a lovely Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna.
Sous Chef Marc then presented us with pan seared branzino (holy cow … such crispy, crunchy skin), with a cannellini bean ragout, radicchio, and oven roasted tomatoes. Let’s not forget a touch of pork belly for that little extra kick of flavor. It was divine. And rich. Blair Schrautemeier – the assistant food and beverage manager – paired the branzino with an earthy, light 2009 Panther Creek Pinot Noir. The result was heavenly.
Did I mention what we had the full attention of the staff? I don’t know how they do it. Sherma and I were far from their only guests – the dining room and bar were buzzing – yet no detail was left to chance. Every need was anticipated. And we were far from over!
Of course there was a third course, and it was meat: beautiful, grilled beef tenderloin. The center was a perfect medium rare, all pink and warm, and every bite was enhanced by porcini reduction and the truffled mashed potatoes, which were like silk. I also loved the pretty, bright orange baby carrots. Michael paired this modern take on traditional meat-and-potatoes with what he described as a traditional – not jammy – cabernet sauvignon from Heitz Cellars. Our experience simply kept getting better and better.
But of course, we ended our evening in the pastry kitchen! This space smells of fresh-baked cookies and the ovens are always warm. It’s comforting enough just to be there and breathe deeply. But our hosts, Michael and Blair, had just a little more in mind for us: lemon truffle cake with amaretto hot chocolate and homemade marshmallows;
and an ice cream truffle with rum-infused ganache.
Oh, yeah … and a selection of Executive Chef Fabrizio Schenardi’s homemade liqueurs: Basil, Mint, Limoncello, Limoncello Crema, and Honey.
I’m still full.
I’m still overwhelmed.
I’m still just a gal with a blog and column.
And they still made me feel like a big deal.
When I have any big accomplishment or simply want to feel as though I am the center of the universe, you know where you’ll be able to find me. I’ll be making my Cielo reservations**** to Eat It, St. Louis!
Cielo
Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis
999 North Second Street
St. Louis, MO 63102
314-881-5800
*My insane love affair with the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis began – pretty much – from the day I learned that the esteemed hotelier would be bringing its distinctive luxury brand to St. Louis. I have worked with the brilliant Trisha Dieckmann to produce signature events, and I have covered Cielo and Executive Chef Fabrizio Schenardi several times for FEAST Magazine and DELUX Magazine. My husband and I celebrated our fifth anniversary with a mini staycation at the Four Seasons, and when we need a little shot of luxury in our lives, we’ll have cocktails in the bar.
** Yes … I just used Facebook as a verb. I know it’s wrong.
***Anyone can book a Chef’s Table event. There are two tables, one that seats up to four and another that seats up to 12. It’s a special experience. Do it!
**** I’ll call next time, I promise.
A Note: This dinner at Cielo was complimentary for my guest and me. At no time did they ask me to cover the dinner or my experience in Eat It, St. Louis! Nor did I ask for my dinner to be comp’d in exchange for coverage. It’s simply a synergy that works. I was prepared to pay and was startled by my hosts’ generosity. My affection for the Four Seasons St. Louis & Cielo is long documented, and I’m thrilled to be covering both in my own space.



























Cancer, Vegan Diets, and Me
Change.
When change happens what do you do? Do you shut your eyes tight and hope to get back to the world as you knew it before change happened? Do you keep your eyes wide open and work to manage the change, to learn, and to grow?
As many of you know, my life changed when my dad was diagnosed with Stage IV colon cancer and then changed again when he died last July. My eyes have been shut tight for some time as I’ve hoped against hope and tried to wish my way back.
It’s time to lift my lids and look around. It’s time to manage, learn, and grow.
I’m lucky to have people around me who can help me through this process, and I’m so glad to know Caryn Dugan and count her among my friends. You’ve probably heard of her and likely recognize her as STLVegGirl.
Caryn is St. Louis’ most passionate vegan, in my opnion. She adopted a whole-food, plant-based diet after her dad succumbed to cancer and she won her own battle with the disease.
I admire her for managing her change right from the beginning. She dug in, and she found the Physician’s Committee for Responsible Medicine (PCRM). What she learned changed her life. Caryn told me that she chose a vegan diet because, “… science tells us that this is the best prevention for warding off chronic diseases and a whole host of other ailments.”
While she is the first to note that a vegan diet is NOT a fool-proof way to NEVER get sick, she is fortified by the idea that should she get sick, she’ll, “have done everything in [her] power to dodge that bullet.” Additionally, she has a better chance of a speedy recovery.
That’s powerful stuff.
Over the course of a few dinners and events, Caryn came to know my story and asked me to join her Food for Life class at the Cancer Support Community* (CSC). So I did. I didn’t know anything about vegan diets. I thought I was going to learn a few techniques and walk away.
What I got from Caryn was information. She shared research gathered by PCRM that shows how meat, dairy, and fat contribute to cancer’s ability to grow. She shared information that shows how diets that are high in fiber, vegetables, and fruits work with our biology to strengthen our immune systems and rid our bodies of toxins. And Caryn showed me in a fun, approachable way how to create easy, flavorful, thoughtful meals that support healthy living (and appeal to a hard-core food lover).
What I found at the CSC was a group of people who were either beginning or in treatment; cancer survivors; family members; and people like me who are grappling with grief. In any event, each of us was trying to manage change in a positive way. The CSC offers a lovely, safe place for people who have been affected by cancer to come together. It’s lively and there’s laughter. When there are tears, there is real understanding and deep compassion.
I had no idea how much I’d value the community I found in those classes. I’m indebted.
My eyes are wide open and I have a lot to chew on as I work through my changed world. Cancer will be part of my life forever, and I know that the odds are not in my favor. There is a target on my back. So, at the very least, I need to make wiser choices.
While making a total conversion to a vegan diet is not what I’m likely to do (I have to be honest with you), I find that I am becoming more conscious of my food-based decisions. There are times – particularly when I’m cooking for myself – when I will be making vegan dishes. I am particularly fascinated by a soy-based ingredient called Tempeh, which I’d never before encountered.
Change doesn’t always have to be cataclysmic. Change can happen in baby steps. As I manage, and learn, and grow with my exploration of vegan opportunities, I will enjoy every bite while I Eat It, St. Louis!
As an aside, a popular question during our classes revolved around which restaurants offer vegan menus. Here is a short list of eateries around St. Louis where you can find vegan options (please feel free to let me know of others):
Black Bear Bakery
Café Natasha
Frida’s Deli
Gokul
Green Bean
HotPot Smoothie Shop
Local Harvest Café
Pho Grand
Pi
PuraVegan
Rooster
Sweet Art Bake Shop & Art Studio
* Cancer Support Community of Greater St. Louis is a non-profit organization whose mission is to ensure that all people impacted by cancer are empowered by knowledge, strengthened by action, and sustained by community. All programs are completely free of charge and offered in a comfortable, home-like environment. Cancer Support Community offers professionally-led support groups, educational workshops, nutrition and exercise programs, and stress-reduction classes to empower and educate individuals affected by cancer. For more information, call 314-238-2000 or visit www.cancersupportstl.org.
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