I’ve been waving this banner my entire cocktail-drinking life. I had my first run-in with gin – which I believe was from a clear plastic bottle with G-I-N in big black letters on a white label – some 20+ years ago. With the fervor of a teetotaler, I have eschewed gin, turned my nose up at the idea, and openly chided friends who would freely choose a gin cocktail.
Then there is the Subcontinental at The Royale: gorgeous and green; fresh and refreshing; exotic and delicious. And loaded with gin … good gin … Bombay Sapphire, to be exact.
Before I ever read the description on the menu, I saw it served to another patron. What intrigued me was the color. Served in a rocks glass, this original cocktail from the creative minds of proprietor Steve Smith and his long-time friend, Tim O’Connell, is the color of grass.*
When I asked the bartender about the lovely green drink, he launched into a near poetic description. This isn’t some fruity drink that’s all greened-up with Midori. No, no, no. The green comes from cucumbers; whole, beautiful cucumbers that Steve and his staff juice – skin and all – fresh every day.
And then he said the word I dreaded to hear: “Gin.” Gasp and heartbreak. I was all in up to that point. Geez louise, I HATE GIN. How could I reconcile my strident position on gin?
So, I simply contemplated the Subcontinental for several months. I sat on it. I struggled with the idea. I wanted to make this work. Cucumbers in cocktails was just too much to pass up and overlook. This was damned near a moral dilemma.
Then, on a clandestine evening that began as a simple dinner date at The Royale with my sweet husband, things took a turn. When the way-cooler-than-me waiter came to the table, I timidly asked him about the Subcontinental. When he noted my hesitation over the “gin situation,” he suggested that he could make the drink with vodka (that my friends, is booze I do NOT hate!). He also noted, with an air of sadness that verged on grief, that the cocktail would not be nearly as good.
I gave in. I argued with myself that it was worth the $7** gamble. I ordered up the Subcontinental.
And it was life changing.
When I lifted the glass to take my first sip, the fresh scent of summertime filled my nose. (This is an especially wonderful experience during the dead of winter.) The drink itself was savory with and edge of sweet. It was lovely, and smooth, and I had an uncustomary change of heart.
Perhaps, in the context of the Subcontinental, not only do I not hate gin … but I LOVE GIN.
I’m glad I opened up. This sort of conversion makes me wonder – in my foodie mind – what else I need to try that I maybe haven’t liked so much in the past.
So, while I think about what I might try next, I offer you a hearty “sláinte!”*** and encourage you to open yourself up to the possibilities you may have shut down because of one bad experience. You might find that you like to Eat It, St. Louis!
The Royale
3132 South Kingshighway Boulevard
Saint Louis, MO 63139-1108
(314) 772-3600
* Unfortunately, you’re stuck with my not-so-fabulous photography. This picture doesn’t even begin to do the drink justice.
** On Sundays, the Subcontinental is just $5 … what a deal!
*** Sláinte (pronounced Slan-cha) is the traditional Irish toast. It translates literally to “health.”








Well, well, well!!!!! I hate gin too, but you do have a way with words, and the next time in STL, I might even try this one! Well done Amy!
Love you,
Mom
It’s really quite surprising! It should be noted, too, that the food at The Royale is pretty darned good, too. It’s a guaranteed destination when you visit. Just up the road from home.
Thanks for reading, Mom!
Love you, too.
Should have mentioned that I thought I hated grits for the last 41 years! I tried a taste of Ray’s at breakfast one cold winter morning in February, and fell in love with them! I have them every day, and even make whole recipes with them! Who knew?
Mom
I’ve had a similar revelation. Evolution is a good thing! 🙂
Happy eating.
I know an awful lot of people who have sworn off gin for life because of an early, unfortunate experience. Gin is just vodka flavored with florals (juniper in particular) – but I think it’s the aroma of those florals that kinda turns peoples stomachs. The memory of that *one time* is just too much for them.
Glad you overcame your fear/hate of gin. There are so many great drinks out there that require gin. You have a whole new universe to explore! And your waiter was right – substituting vodka for gin in drinks meant to be made with gin is largely a waste of time. It’s those pesky florals that combine with the other ingredients that give the drink magic.
Try Plymouth Gin, particularly if you ever brave a martini. Better than Bombay Sapphire IMO.
Nice post. Thanks
What a great comment!
One of the greatest ideas to me is that even though I’ve tried a lot of food and drink, there is still a lot to be had. And even by simply trying something new, a whole new realm of possibilities opens right up.
Cheers!
Cheers to more possibilities and better cocktails! great post 🙂
Thank you! Here’s to opening minds, hearts, and palettes.
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